During a long run in an unfamiliar corner of town one morning, I came upon a broad set of stone steps, flanked on either side by massive stone lanterns.

Thinking it the entrance to a shrine, I climbed up the steps. To my surprise, however, I found a number of monuments dedicated to those who had died in Japan's modern wars and foreign engagements from the overthrow of the shogun and restoration of the Emperor to power, known as Boshin War (戊辰戦争, 1868-69) and Meiji Restoration (明治維新, 1886), to the Russo-Japan War (日露戦争, 1904-05), the Manchurian Incident (満州事変, 1931), and on to the Pacific War (太平洋戦争) which ended 75 years ago this summer.

This sombre memorial to Japan's militaristic past is not listed on the map, nor are there any signs outside of the premises indicating what awaits the visitor at the top of the stairs.

For more on "Tani Park", go here.