12. Breakfast

“Plate,” Gilligan wheezes to me.

“Huh?”

“I need your plate,” he says again.

“Plate?”

“Yes, your plate.”

There’s nothing on, or under, or beside the desk that remotely resembles a plate. Gilligan suggests I check the shelf to the right window. When I do, I discover a plastic basin and dishtowel under which are hidden a set of plastic chopsticks, and a plate, salmon-colored and featuring three elephants and the message:

 

Do you like living here?

Yes, it’s great living here.

Let’s be HAPPIEST DAYS.

 

Good grief.

I feed the HAPPIEST DAYS plate through a narrow opening below the bars, where a guard, an enormous bear of a man, takes it, dumps a ladleful of pinkish cubes on it, and passes the plate back.

Placing a bowl of miso soup and a covered bowl of rice on the ledge, Gilligan and the bear go on to the next cell.

Arranging everything neatly on the desk—rice on the left, soup on the right, the plate set before the two—I kneel down for breakfast, put my hands together and with a slight bow say: “Itadakimasu.”[1]

I take the rice bowl in my hand and try to remove the lid, but no matter how hard I twist it, the damned thing won’t budge. The lid is so firmly attached, I resort to rapping it against the corner of the washbasin a few times until it gives.

You could hang a man from a goalpost with this.

When the lid comes off, I find the bowl has been filled slipshod with mugi gohan, or barley rice. Like mugi cha, I’ve never been crazy about mugi gohan, either.

I take a bite of the barley rice, and wash it down with the soup, a simple miso broth with chopped leek.

I have eaten worse.

The pink cubes on the plate stump me. An exploratory sniff gleans nothing. In all my years in Japan, I’ve never come across anything quite like it. And I have eaten some pretty odd things. Is it some kind of pickled fish or vegetable? Is it canned whale meat? What with the price of whale meat these days, they wouldn’t be dishing out a “delicacy” like that to lawbreakers top of the morning, now would they? I take the plate to the toilet and scrape the cubes into it.

Above the toilet are easy-to-follow instructions:

 

Flush once, not twice.

Don’t flush anything but toilet paper down the toilet.

 

And because you should never take things for granted, particularly in jail:

 

Use sink to wash face.

 

Gilligan returns about fifteen minutes later to collect the dishes, and, seeing how little I’ve eaten, asks if I need more time. I tell him that I haven’t got much of an appetite. Nodding, he takes the bowls away.

“Keep the plate.”

 

[1] Itadakimasu (いただきます) is a polite way of say, among other things, “to receive” or “to eat”.

 


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11. Gilligan

While the guy is away serving the others, I give the schedule in the Regulations & Morals another look:

 

7:50

Breakfast

12:00

Lunch

16:20

Dinner

 

Dinner at four-twenty? Who the hell eats dinner at four-twenty?

Several minutes later, the inmate reappears before my window, the trolley now carrying with a large tin pot, stacks of plastic soup bowls, and covered rice bowls.

The first time his figure darkened my window I got the impression that he was in his forties, but now that I take a good look at the guy—the knobby knees poking out of the bottom of his gray shorts like dried persimmons, the stooped, bony shoulders, and arms like twigs—I’d say he must be pushing sixty.

And the longer I look at him, at his gaunt features, the outdated spectacles, the cap covering his shaved head, the more I am reminded of Gilligan stranded on this uncharted desert isle of ours, aging, yes, but not quite getting older season after season after season, year after year.

10. Mugicha

From the deep end of the cell block, the grating sound of casters rolling over rough concrete rises like a bubble through the corridor. As the sound draws closer, I look out the window just in time to see an inmate pass, trundling the very same trolley I got yelled at for sitting on earlier.

The two of us could be twins, dressed as we are in identical gray denim shorts and white undershirts. Unlike me, however, he has also got a matching gray cap on, and a pair of old-fashioned, general-issue glasses, the kind with the thick frames above the eyes that look like heavy eyebrows. Doing an about-face before my cell, he backs the trolley the rest of the way up the cell block.

A muffled announcement comes over the squawk box. Something about meals, if I heard correctly. And now, out in the shallow end of the corridor, muted voices can be heard, followed by a metallic clank, the sloshing of a liquid. The routine is repeated, only closer. A moment later, the inmate with the cap is back, standing before my window, poking the spout of an industrial sized kettle between the bars of the window.

In a reedy voice, he asks for my kettle.

I’ve been wondering what that was for.

I take the kettle from the desk, and place it on the windowsill where he does a cack-handed job filling it, splashing tea all over the ledge, the tatami, and me.

“Thanks,” I say and he continues on down the corridor.

Pouring myself a cup, I take a sip.

“Blech! Mugi cha.”

Barley tea, a favorite with the Japanese during the summer, tastes like mud.